Elevator Counter-weights & Insp Panel Nut Plates

Ah, the big lead blocks - I mean elevator counter-weights.

Bogged the band saw down a little, but they're actually fairly soft and easily cut.

I probably should've taken some shots of the cutting process. I used my band saw which did an ok job even if it did get a little warm.....

ok, HOT - I couldn't hold it even with gloves on.

Once the main shape was cut, I'd trim the edges with a knife as the lead is just like silver frozen butter.

Below is the inboard side of the right E-903 Tip Rib

...and the outside...

I thought this was as good a time as any to install the nut plates around the inspection panel. A mate Steve, mentioned he'd seen perspex panels installed to replace the aluminium ones from Vans. This makes a lot of sense as the bolts inside are fairly critical. The perspex panels would make it very easy to inspect during every pre-start walk-around.

I decided to install the nut plates that allow a countersunk screw on the outside Expensive little buggers, but worth it from my perspective.

Elevator Trim Tab Servo

This is the dimpled trim tab mounting plate.

Riveting the E-01409 servo supports

Supports attached.

Thought I'd better see how it fits at the point.......perfect!

....aaaaaaand riveted.

I had an interesting chat with Vans via email about the washers in this next photo. The story goes:

• As there are no labels or markings on the washers themselves, when I received the bag of bits Vans, when confirming the original inventorying, I divided up the washers according to the quantities listed as the different types were different quantities.
• I didn't chase the dimensions online to confirm.
• As per this drawing...

• .....I should be installing two of NAS1149FN432P washers. According to my count, they are the larger inner diameter washers that slip straight over the MS20392-1C11 pin which sort of defeats the purpose.
• The image below shows how I aligned the washers according to what was in the packet.

• The smaller washer (according to me) was the NAS1149FN416P - which fits perfectly, and was actually the one I installed while awaiting a response from Vans.
• Within 12hrs, they responded with a shortcut to Aircraft Spruce which has a nice chart showing all the washers, dimensions and even has little pictures.
• This confirmed I seem to have the wrong quantities of washers in my kit. I now need to read ahead and see where the others are used and ultimately find out what the discrepancy is as something isn't right.

Anyway, this is how the trim servo push rod looks attached...

These are the pins that go into the non-siliconed end which I've soldered on.

And this is how the trim tab sits after connecting the other end of the trim tab servo rod to the trim tab. I now need to power it up and get it straight.

Right Elevator Trailing Edge / Trim Tab

Time to do some more double flush rivets on the elevator trailing edges.

Had to lift the back plate to ensure the underside was flush with it.

Putting a strip of tape along the top side was just to limit any marks on the skin that the rivet gun may decide to leave.

Very clean and very straight = very happy :)

If I put a long straight edge next to the trailing edge, I'm sure I would see some minor 'waves' in it, but you have to look hard.

Fit's nicely too. The little hole for the safety wire has been drilled below, but I won't worry about that this year.

Ahh, left elevator and trim tab almost done.

The plans said to fill in the back of the connector with silicon. Not really happy with how it turned out but I should've practised on something else first. I'll no doubt go back to this at some stage and put a better looking finish on it - it's sealed though.

Right Elevator Skins

Now, same for the right, right? I wish.

The main spar rivets went without an issue...

Looks nice.

Then came the skin to E-903 rivets. I mustn't have had them lined up very well as the two larger shop heads in the below photo indicate where I decided to drill out the hole to take a NAS426AD4-4 rivet. Not proud of this section, but it is what it is and ultimately, it's just as strong - arguably stronger.

Pick the odd one out...

And a better shot showing the difference between two correct sized AN426AD3-4 rivets on the left, and the NAS426AD4-4 rivet with the larger shop head on the right.

The centre rivet below is what happens when you don't keep pressure on the rivet when using the rivet on the other side (skin surface). What it's done is semi set, but the manufactured head (skin side) is not sitting flush with the skin (didn't take a photo).

That being the case, I had to remove it, and try again. Because I'd squashed a little of the rim of the hole, this would have a tendency to lean over when being set.

So I took it much slower to make sure it was setting correctly....this is about 60% set.

That's better.

And this is the skin side...

That top rivet doesn't look very good. I don't think I noticed that when I took the photo but I will now go back and check it. There also shouldn't be any gaps between the flange and skin. Luckily, this section is still easily accessible.

All done...

Left Elevator Skins

Time to hit some left elevator main spar rivets. I could get to these with the pneumatic squeezer, so life was good.

Left elevator done. Now to the fun part - creating the bend in the leading edge.

Left elevator - tight spot

The underside of the left elevator looks pretty harmless, right?

These two tiny little AN470AD3-3.5 rivets look fairly harmless, but they're in a spot that's very difficult to get to with the tools I have.

I originally thought this would be perfect for the pneumatic squeezer - nope. The fixed side of the squeezer was touching the shop head adjacent to the rivet I was trying to squeeze. This meant the concave half of rivet set couldn't sit squarely on the top of the rivet. Same with the manual squeezer.

Had to go ask someone who know more about this than me.....Steeeeeeeeeeveeee!!!