This may or may not assist builders in their early stages. Some may have already received the memo, but I must have been watching Redbull Rampage when it was issued. If and when you purchase your pneumatic squeezer/dimpler, make sure you also purchase a longeron yolk...
and more importantly, ensure the set holder is adjustable(below).
As I understand it, Cleveland Aircraft Tools sell their pneumatic squeezer/dimpler with the adjustable set holder just like this....
If it's not installed in the squeezer, the threaded section gives it away as being adjustable. If it happens to be installed and you want to know if it's adjustable, it should have two flat sections either side of the shaft to assist rotating the shaft if it happens to be a little stuck.
What follows is a short description of how I realized this, and why the sequence of events assisted me in screwing up four rivets and ultimately having to drill them out.
1. Incorrect yolk for the job
I obviously got away with not requiring the extra squeezing force on the thinner diameter rivets (AD3). However, when I progressed to Step 6 on page 06-04, I was forced to take a lesson in the correct setup of the gap when either dimpling or squeezing. As I didn't have the longeron yolk or the adjustable set holder, I reverted to the manual squeezer which becomes very difficult to squeeze AD4 rivets unless you spend at least 3-4hrs per day pumping iron in the gym.
This was the result:
and this one:
Both have been drilled out and awaiting the correct tools.
2. Absence of Adjustable Set Holder
For those like myself who haven't been given a detailed instruction on how the pneumatic squeezer/dimpler works, it's important to note that it's the final 1/4"(approx) that imparts the highest compression force on whatever is being squeezed. This being the case, set up the gap correctly. The easiest way to do that is to make sure you either purchase a pneumatic squeezer/dimpler fitted with an adjustable set holder or fit one yourself like the one above.
